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DDwesa Nature Reserve is a little green gem on South Africa’s Wild Coast in Eastern Cape province. A provincial reserve, it offers coastal forest, grasslands with wild animals and best of all, a chance to laze on a gloriously empty beach.
During the mild winter, look out for humpback whales and the incredible Sardine Run, when the little fish migrate in their millions up the east coast of South Africa, followed by predators like sharks, dolphins, game fish and sea birds.
Here’s a thumbnail impression of Dwesa: primordial, sweeping beaches, dense coastal forest with log cabins, grassy uplands.
At only 3 900 hectares in size, it is really a pocket park, but within its confines are found alluring birds like the beautiful but elusive Narina trogon.
The mangrove forests at the Mbashe and Nqabara river mouths are excellent places to hunt for the mangrove kingfisher.
On the grasslands, look out for the yellow-breasted longclaw, broad-tailed warbler and wailing cisticola.
There are wild animals about, but nothing dangerous except for crocodiles in the rivers – and buffalo. On the grasslands and scrub veld you’ll see red hartebeest, zebras, eland, blesbok, wildebeest, warthogs and bushbuck.
In the forests, look out for the very rare Samango monkey, the equally rare blue duiker, as well as more common vervet monkeys and tree hyraxes.
But for many people, the main attraction here is the gorgeous, sweeping beach where at times you feel like the last human on Earth. Not for nothing is this part of the world called the Wild Coast.
Plovers run up and down at the waves’ edge, and oystercatchers plunder the shellfish along the broad rocks.
If you’d like to take a break from nature, there’s always the option of a boat trip across the Mbashe River to the Haven Hotel, one of the Wild Coast’s well-known fishing destinations.
You could also explore the Cwebe Nature Reserve, on the other side of the Mbashe River.
Dwesa and Cwebe are among the oldest protected areas in South Africa – they were declared state forests in the 1800s. Before then, they had been hiding places for high-ranking Xhosa chiefs during the decades that saw 9 Frontier Wars against the European settlers.
Accommodation at Dwesa is simple, and you bring your own food. There are 3 cabins with 4 bedrooms and 4 cabins for couples, all equipped with gas stoves and fridges. If you prefer, there are also camping facilities.
Did You Know?
TTravel tips & Planning info
Who to contact
Dwesa Reservations
Tel: +27 (0)43 492 0883
E-mail: reservations@ecpta.co.za
Eastern Cape Tourism
Tel: +27 (0)43 492 0881
How to get here
The closest airport is at East London. From there, take the N2 north towards Idutywa, about 150km away on a good, but busy road. At Iduywa, turn towards Dwesa – it is well-signposted. From here, it will take an hour or 2 to get to the reserve, depending on whether it has rained or not. Ask about the state of the road, the condition of which fluctuates over the seasons. Overall, the trip from East London should take between 3 and 4 hours.
Best time to visit
Dwesa is good in all seasons, but the drier winter months of June and July are particularly pleasant and mild. There’s also the possibility that the annual sardine migration (referred to as the Sardine Run) will take place around then, with all its attendant dolphins, game fish, seabirds and Bryde’s whales – although you may want to hold off until September to see this astounding phenomenon. This is also a good season to see the odd humpback whale making its way north towards Mozambique.
Around the area
If you’re feeling energetic, go to the Haven Hotel for mountain biking, fishing, canoeing or horse riding. Dwesa's sister reserve, Cwebe, is also just across the Mbashe River.
Tours to do
If you’d like a guided walk, a member of the community will take you around the park.
Get around
This is a reserve that does not really lend itself to driving about. Instead, you’ll get most places by walking. This is a place where you can truly relax.
What will it cost
Dwesa has a range of accommodation; a 2-bed chalet off-peak costs R339 per night, while the forest house costs R1 036 per night in peak season. There are also 4-bed chalets – see the listed website for all the details.
Length of stay
Two or 3 nights would be ideal, but you’ll probably leave wishing you had more time.
What to pack
A swimming costume, a hat, sunscreen, a sarong, food, binoculars and a beach umbrella.
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