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Free State

TThe fact that Harrismith lies exactly halfway between Johannesburg and Durban on the N3 highway is both a blessing and a curse. The ‘curse’ is that most motorists stop here only briefly, for fuel and a bite to eat, before continuing the 7-hour journey between the two metropolises. 

The ‘blessing’ is that Harrismith provides the perfect mountain-country getaway, less than 4 hours’ drive from either city – and should you decide to break your Jo’burg-Durban trip here and spend some time in Harrismith, you’ll discover one of Free State province’s diamonds in the rough. 

Surrounded by serried ranks of Drakensberg peaks alternating with quiet pastoral valleys, rural Harrismith is like a village from a Thomas Hardy novel, albeit one in which the rustics speak seSotho or Afrikaans. It’s real ‘Farmer Brown’ country, and on any day in the town centre you’ll find tractors vying with sedans for road space. The people who live in the area are creative, resilient and often blessed with the kind of eccentric sense of humour that allows people to survive the coldest winters. 

Precisely because of its location at the top of several passes through the Drakensberg between Free State and KwaZulu-Natal, Harrismith was a pivotal centre during the South African War of 1899-1902 (also known as the Second Anglo-Boer War). Held by the British (who had invaded the Boer republic of Orange Free State from the Colony of Natal), the town formed the apex of a series of blockhouses initially built to defend the railway line against guerrilla Boer attacks. 

Evidence of one of the British battalions that bivouacked in Harrismith still stands on a nearby hill, which bears the inscription ‘42’. The First Battalion Royal Highlanders (also known as the Black Watch) stayed here for nearly a year. That hill is now part of Intabazwe township, and a lively local community. 

There’s always something on the go in Intabazwe, especially on Mponeng Street. The locals call it ‘See Me Street’, because if you live in Intabazwe and you have something to show off to your neighbours, you parade it down Mponeng. It can be a pretty girlfriend, a smart phone, a new car or simply some music which you show off by playing it at top volume while cruising down ‘See Me Street’... 

Did You Know?

TTravel tips & Planning  info 

Who to contact

Harrismith Information  
Tel: +27 (0)58 623 0860 

How to get here

Harrismith is just off the N3 between Johannesburg (314km) and Durban (315km). 

Best time to visit

If you like snow, come here in late winter (July-August), as it often snows on the Drakensberg at this time of year. 

Around the area

Sterkfontein Dam, Golden Gate Highlands National Park, and the towns of Clarens (an artists’ haven) and Bethlehem are all within day-drive distance. 

Get around

Its best to drive yourself, but Harrismith also lies on major bus routes. 

Length of stay

You could while away 2 days easily seeing the sights in and around Harrismith, or you could find a B&B in the area with a breath-taking view and use it as your base of operations to explore the surrounding Drakensberg for a week. 

What to pack

In high summer (December and January), all you are going to need is light clothes, a hat and sunscreen. Winters (May to August) can be very cold, so dress accordingly – but even if the temperature drops, the UV index on cloudless days can be high, so don’t forget the sun protection, even when it’s paradoxically bright but chilly. 

Where to stay

There are lots of options here, including campsites, chalets in nature reserves, rooms in heritage hotels, B&Bs, and even a convenient backpackers lodge in town – with several more of these no-frills hostelries dotted throughout the Drakensberg. Research accommodation on the listed websites. 

Best buys

Look out for local artworks, from artists like Thelmi Bekker, Adam Truscott and Madeleine Roos. 

 

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