Eating out in Pretoria/Tshwane: dining among the diplomats

BBefore tackling the question of where to eat in Pretoria/Tshwane, visitors sometimes need a quick primer on South Africa’s complex history (did you know we have 3 capital cities?) to understand its social fault-lines – so here goes:  

When the Union of South Africa was created in 1910, a lingering bitterness was felt by many white Afrikaners over Britain’s ruthless internment of Boer women and children in disease-ravaged concentration camps during the South African War (formerly called the Second Anglo-Boer War), which had ended less than a decade earlier. 

Partly in an attempt to quieten this opposition to incorporation in a new self-governing dominion of the British Empire, the Union was created with 3 capitals, 2 of them in the conquered Boer republics.  

Pretoria in the then-Transvaal province became the executive capital, home to the Union Buildings and the prime minister (nowadays the president), Bloemfontein in Free State became the judicial capital, housing the Supreme Court of Appeal, and Cape Town, the seat of Parliament in Western Cape, became the legislative capital. 

This arrangement survived the transition to a republic in 1961 and South Africa’s first fully enfranchised democratic elections in 1994, which saw the installation of Nelson Mandela as our first post-apartheid president. However, changes in local government have made the terminology tricky. 

Pretoria, still a distinct city but now in the small province of Gauteng, is governed at local level as part of the Tshwane Metropolitan Municipality, which includes neighbouring towns like Bronkhorstspruit, Rayton, Cullinan and Hammanskraal, and a fair amount of rural land in between – so whether you call the city ‘Pretoria’ or ‘Tshwane’ is largely a matter of political persuasion or geographic pedantry.  

Whatever you call it, dining out in Pretoria/Tshwane is a treat, as here eat, drink and be merry is the name of the game. As the seat of the Presidency, it is naturally a city of international diplomats, so the multicultural and fine-dining options are superb – you will be spoilt for choice with sophisticated celebration options. 

If it’s Belgian chic you’re after, Chef Daniel Leusch’s La Madeleine, one of the city’s longest-established fine-dining restaurants, is the way to go. These days joined in the kitchen by his daughter Anne, Chef Leusch senior has begun to incorporate youthful elements of molecular gastronomy into his otherwise classic repertoire.  

If Italian is your flavour, try the deliciously ebullient Forti’s Grill and Bar at Time Square Casino in Menlyn for marvellous Mediterranean cuisine. From the first bite of antipasto to the last mouthful of zabaglione, you can’t go wrong with owner Chef Fortunato Mazzone; ‘Forti’, famed for Pretoria’s Ristorante Ritrovo, has been treasured by local gourmets for years – and his menus also cater deliciously to vegans and vegetarians. 

Congolese culinary cool is on offer at Zemara in Hatfield, where Chef Jackie Picard conjures up delicious palm pulp-infused antelope casseroles, roasted tilapia fish and deep-fried plantains with aplomb. 

For a curry treat, head for the Oriental Palace in Arcadia. The bhindi gosht okra curry with aloo naan paratha bread is a one-way trip to paradise (but please note, there is no alcohol allowed at this establishment). 

Or if you fancy a bite of relaxed boerekos, the Sunday buffet at Monument Restaurant inside the Voortrekker Monument offers unbeatable flavours and value for money. Each Sunday up to 400 people arrive to dig into the three-course feast, including a full carvery. 

That’s just a taste – Tshwane also offers Thai, Portuguese, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indonesian and many other ethnic cuisines (not to mention contemporary fine-dining fusion ‘food as art’ establishments, like Black Bamboo in Ashlea Gardens or Restaurant Mosaic in Elandsfontein) to tantalise your taste-buds. See the Eat Out listings (link below) for more information.